PARR KZN Reflection : Thabiso Ncanana

Reflecting on my experience as a KZN (KwaZulu Natal) based resident for the AFRI residency called The Fold, I am overwhelmed with humility and excitement. The opportunity to immerse myself in the wealth of knowledge of African indigenous practices and their profound connection to fashion, the arts, and our people has been truly transformative.

Residencies like The Fold play a crucial role in preserving and reviving knowledge that has often been forgotten or undermined. They offer a unique platform to delve deep into cultural practices that hold immense value but have been overshadowed by modernity. My astonishment was evident when I discovered that the Umthombe tree (Ficus Natalensis), which serves as the source of barkcloth, is found in Uganda and KZN, reflecting a geographical link and a cultural bond that unites us as Africans. This revelation strengthened my belief in the power of art and culture to bridge gaps and foster a collective identity. Interacting with fellow residents, such as Lesiba Mabitsela, who introduced me to the world of decolonized fashion and patternmaking, and Liz and Sheila, who work intimately with barkcloth, further heightened my appreciation for indigenous practices. Their curiosity and dedication to understanding the intersection of these practices with sustainable fashion were commendable. Witnessing their work reaffirmed my conviction that solutions to contemporary challenges lie within the wisdom of our ancestors, waiting to be nurtured, preserved, and evolved through artistic expression.

The exposure to the process of papermaking during the residency was particularly eye-opening. Often an underrated practice, papermaking holds immense potential in our approach to design as informed and culturally inclined designers. Incorporating this traditional technique into contemporary fashion and art can offer new dimensions of creativity and sustainability. I firmly believe that programs like The Fold should be embraced and expanded. In our increasingly material-focused world, these residencies play a vital role in fostering a deeper understanding of cultural heritage and its integration into modern design. By elevating the value-focused approach over materialism, we can create designs that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also resonate with meaning and respect for our cultural roots.

My time at The Fold has been an enlightening journey, instilling in me a sense of responsibility to honour and carry forward the Indigenous practices that have shaped us as Africans. As artists and designers, we have the privilege of being custodians of our heritage. Embracing and evolving these practices can pave the way for a fashion revolution that is not only innovative but also deeply connected to our identity and values as a diverse and vibrant continent. Ultimately, this residency has reaffirmed my belief that art is the ultimate solution to every challenge we face, and our path to a brighter future lies in cultivating and preserving our Indigenous practices.

The New Patterns Workshop was made possible by the generous support of the National Arts Council @nacsouthafrica